Surfers, In Touch With Something Huge

You may think these people are crazy
or perhaps amazingly awesome, doing something you're incapable of
I know that i'm likely incapable of the crazy rides that many surfers get
because i don't have the time or drive to devote to such a lifestyle
But i love the experience that surfing provides
and even if most of my rides have resulted in wipeouts, of sorts
I have a deep admiration for this sport and those who pursue it

There is nothing quite like the feeling you get when you first stand up and a wave begins carrying you towards the shore
The rush is nearly indescribable
and the movement is almost completely outside yourself, and yet you're in it
That is cool, and powerful
Being in the ocean and experiencing the fact that we are human and the ocean is vast can give us a better sense of our place in creation.

Watch this briefly, starting at 2:00, these people describe the "feeling":



Don't get me wrong, good rides are few and far in between
and surfing is hard, hard work
My arms will kill for days from paddling out for only a few hours if I haven't surfed in a while
Sharks are not make believe
A rough wave can put you under water for longer than a minute
The threats are real
but then, these things too, only add to the rush we feel as we conquer a great wave and land a good ride
We overcome tremendous obstacles, stare a possible force of destruction into the face and scream victory
This is all part of the rush

The goodness and the toughness-along with the danger-of surfing..The threats are real, but without taking the risk, we will never feel the rush. That is real, and beautiful. Many of the most worthwhile pursuits in life are things of great risk, and sacrifice, which can also provide us with such grand, indescribable pleasure. I would not give up these opportunities for the sake of being "safe." What is safe, after all?